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As of June 23, 2024
Please be aware that this page is not currently updated to reflect all the changes that have been implemented in the database project.

Tudor Embroidery Database

Introduction

Target Audience

This Tudor embroidery database is a valuable resource for researchers, students, textile artists, and anyone interested in exploring embroidery during the 16th century in England.

Origin and Purpose

Recognizing the lack of a centralized resource for information on Tudor era art depicting embroidery, this database was created to provide a comprehensive and searchable collection.

Scope

The database serves as a repository for art that is or depicts embroidery from 16th century England (also called Tudor period) that primarily is silk embroidery threads on a linen ground. This will encompass 1490-1615, to capture the evolution of embroidery styles. Sources include artworks and surviving garments.

Data

As of 6 July 2024, the database has cataloged 395 entries, comprised of 385 unique objects pertaining to Tudor era embroidery arts. These entries were compiled through a comprehensive search of more than 100,000 objects, encompassing over 49 museums, 7 private auction websites, and various other online resources.

By it’s nature, this database will never be truly “complete.” All efforts will be made to review and update items on a regular basis.

Methodology

Inclusion Criteria

The database includes surviving garments and  artworks where embroidery is clearly visible or documented. 

Exclusion Criteria

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Data Collected

Artwork

Calculated Year

Year

Object Type

Color

Decoration

Garment

Gender

Spacing

Shapes

Depicts

Shading

Level of Detail

Artist/Maker

Museum

Web Address

Related Items

Limitations

(EDIT THIS!) This database is subject to several limitations. First, the analysis relied on a single researcher conducting the search for relevant portraits. Second, due to limitations in some museum collection databases, portraits where the presence of embroidery could not be definitively confirmed were excluded. Third, the vast number of potential sources necessitated a focused search strategy, which may have resulted in overlooking some relevant artworks. Finally, language barriers presented challenges when searching foreign museum collections.

Definitions

Using the Database

Searching

Tudor Embroidery Database Criteria and Definitions

General Information:

  • Artwork Title: Include the title of the artwork (if available) or a brief description (e.g., “Portrait of a Lady”).
  • Artist (if known): If the artist is known, include their name and any relevant information (e.g., nationality, artistic movement).
  • Date: Include the creation date of the artwork (estimated if necessary).
  • Museum or Collection: Specify the museum or collection where the artwork is housed (if available).
  • Image URL (if available): Include a link to a high-quality image of the artwork, if possible.

Embroidery Details:

  • Color (Select one):
    • Single Color: Choose one primary color from the list: red, black, white, or pink.
    • Polychromatic: If the embroidery uses more than one primary color, select this option.
  • Decoration (Select all that apply):
    • No: No additional embellishments are present beyond the embroidery thread itself.
    • Spangles: Shiny, usually metallic, decorative discs sewn onto the fabric.
    • Metallic Thread: Thread made entirely or partially of metal, giving the embroidery a metallic sheen.
    • Spangles and Metallic Thread: Both spangles and metallic thread are used in the embroidery.
    • Unknown: If the decoration is unclear from the image or description, choose this option.
  • Garment (Select all that apply):
    • Dress: Self-explanatory
    • Sleeves: Self-explanatory
    • Partlet: A separate garment covering the neck and chest.
    • Collar: Self-explanatory
    • Ruffs/Cuffs: Decorative necklines or sleeve trimmings made of gathered fabric.
    • Undershirt: A garment worn underneath other clothing.
    • Other: If the garment type is not listed or unclear, choose “other” and elaborate in the description field.
    • Unknown: If the garment type is impossible to determine, choose this option.
  • Made For (Select one):
    • Women: The garment or portrait depicts clothing typically worn by women in the Tudor period.
    • Men: The garment or portrait depicts clothing typically worn by men in the Tudor period.
    • Unknown: If the gender of the person depicted is unclear or the garment type doesn’t have a clear gender association, choose this option.
  • Spacing (Select one):
    • Dense: The embroidery stitches or motifs closely cover the fabric with minimal negative space.
  • Balanced: The embroidery stitches or motifs are evenly distributed on the fabric with a moderate amount of negative space.
  • Loose: The embroidery stitches or motifs are spread out on the fabric with a significant amount of negative space.
  • Shapes (Select one):
    • Geometric: The embroidery primarily uses geometric shapes like squares, circles, triangles, etc.
    • Organic: The embroidery primarily uses shapes inspired by nature, like leaves, flowers, or flowing curves.
  • Depicts (Pick all that apply): LFIAOU
    • Leaves: Self-explanatory
    • Flowers: Self-explanatory
    • Insects: Self-explanatory
    • Animals: Self-explanatory
    • Other: If there are other identifiable motifs not listed, choose “other” and elaborate in the description field.
    • Unknown: If no motifs are clearly identifiable, choose this option.
  • Shading (Select one):
    • None: The embroidery uses a single thread color with no attempt to create shading or depth.
    • Diapering: A repetitive geometric pattern used to create a background texture for the embroidery.
    • Naturalistic: Shading techniques are used to create a more realistic appearance of depth and dimension in the embroidered motifs.
    • Unknown: If the shading technique is unclear from the image or description, choose this option.

Level of Detail (Select one):

  1. Highly stylized:
    • Motifs are very basic and geometric, with minimal variation or detail. (Think squares, triangles, simple lines)
    • Limited color palette (often single color or few basic colors)
    • Flat and graphic appearance, lacking depth or dimension
  2. Moderately stylized:
    • Motifs are recognizable shapes but lack intricate details.
    • May use a few basic geometric or organic shapes combined (e.g., squares with stylized flowers)
    • Limited color variation, but might have some basic shading or outlining for suggestive depth.
  3. Moderately detailed:
    • Motifs are clearly recognizable and may depict figures, objects, or nature.
    • Some variation in detail within the motifs themselves (e.g., basic flower shapes with a few petals)
    • May use a wider range of colors, but shading techniques are still basic (e.g., flat shading or basic outlining).
  4. Highly detailed:
    • Motifs are intricate and depict realistic forms with a good degree of detail.
    • Complex shapes and figures with clear definition (e.g., detailed flowers with individual petals and veins)
    • Rich color palettes with sophisticated shading techniques to create depth and dimension (e.g., naturalistic shading, blending)

Examples:

  • Highly stylized: A simple geometric pattern of squares and triangles in a single color.
  • Moderately stylized: A stylized floral motif with basic flower shapes and some outlining to suggest depth.
  • Moderately detailed: A portrait miniature featuring a person with recognizable facial features but limited shading.
  • Highly detailed: A portrait miniature featuring a person with detailed facial features, hair, and clothing with intricate embroidery patterns using various colors and shading techniques.